Jump to content

  • Welcome to Auto Parts Forum

    Whether you are a veteran automotive parts guru or just someone looking for some quick auto parts advice, register today and start a new topic in our forum. Registration is free and you can even sign up with social network platforms such as Facebook, X, and LinkedIn. 

     

Recommended Posts

Posted

rssImage-c80fb46ea5de2b86df77f4bb2d6aae47.jpeg

Ask anyone what a “complete” brake job is and you’re likely to get a variety of answers. In the context of professional automotive repair, I define complete as meaning correctly done.

Why? Because the actual work that needs done to any given vehicle can vary depending on vehicle mileage, age and condition. And it can vary based on the equipment. For example, do you have access to a brake lathe? As a counter professional, you’ll have to dig into the details with your customer to determine what they need. However, there are simple guidelines to follow that will ensure you’re advising a “complete” brake job every time.

Brake Fluid, Brake Fluid, Brake Fluid

Above all, clean brake fluid is my first requirement.

It’s probably one of the most overlooked vehicle services, and most people don’t think of it as part of a brake job. It’s an afterthought only considered if they’re forced to do it. Anytime I perform brake work, the first part of the inspection is the bleeder screws. They must be able to open. No brake job is complete without flushing the brake fluid.

There’s no need to get “crazy” with it either when it’s done on a regular basis. A couple small 12-ounce bottles are plenty. Use a clean suction-bulb to remove as much brake fluid as you can from the master-cylinder reservoir, refill it, then flush fluid through until you can fit the contents of both bottles into the reservoir. Start with five strokes at each wheel until you see how much fluid is being forced through, so you equally balance the flushing from front to rear.

Contaminated brake fluid is corrosive and damaging to all the internal brake-system components, and it can cause poor braking performance. Even though every manufacturer specifies to flush it on a regular basis, it’s still out-of-sight, out-of-mind for a lot of people. In my opinion, you can’t change the brake fluid too often.

A complete brake job not only includes fluid, but also calipers or wheel cylinders in any situation where the bleeders don’t open.

Pads and Rotors

When disc brakes are being serviced, pads and rotors are at the core of the job. It’s far less common to resurface rotors than it has been in past times, and it doesn’t matter if you take that road or go with new. But the bottom line is something must happen with the rotors. “Slapping” a set of pads on old rotors is an immediate fail. The pads will never bed in properly, and you’ll only be faced with poor brake performance, uneven pad wear and unwanted noise.

The bottom line: Rotors must be resurfaced or replaced for the job to be complete. By the same token, old pads on new rotors equals an incomplete brake job.

Why would someone do this? Your guess could be as good as mine, but believe me, I’ve seen it all and I’m sure you have too. New pads and rotors bed in together. In other words, they rely on each other for proper brake operation.

Drum Brakes

If you thought there were some offenders with disc brakes, drums are often worse. For some reason there seems to be a perception that brake drums miraculously never need service, but the same theories hold true. If you’re replacing brake shoes, the job is only correctly done by resurfacing or replacing the drums.

Hardware

Hardware is anything from springs and hold-downs on drum brakes to anti-rattle clips and slide-pin boots on disc brakes. All these little pieces are important to proper brake operation. On drum brakes, even though everything may be intact, it’s also old and the springs will simply be fatigued. On disc brakes, the same holds true and even anti-rattle clips that look OK can be worn or fatigued in some manner. Luckily, most pads come with the hardware. They don’t put it in the box just for fun.

One of the most overlooked parts of disc-brake service is the fact that the pads must be able to move freely in the caliper bracket and the calipers also must be able to move freely back and forth. Most calipers (excluding fixed calipers) feature slide pins that allow this to happen. No brake job is complete without removing the slide pins, cleaning them up, lubricating them and reinstalling them with new boots when required.

It’s surprising how often the slide pins are stuck and how often brake pads are jammed in place due to rust, and the rust must be completely removed to allow free movement of the new brake pads. Stuck pins or stuck pads cause uneven and accelerated wear, dragging brakes, pulling and excessive heat buildup.

Lubrication

I touched on it already, but it’s worth a second mention. In addition to the slide pins on calipers, the brake pads require lubrication any place they contact the caliper bracket or caliper. Brake lube is specifically formulated to a) not damage or swell rubber components such as piston or slide-pin boots, b) prevent vibrations that cause noise, c) lubricate the pad contact points so they move freely in the caliper bracket and d) resist washing out.

In the case of drum brakes, the backing plates feature specific contact points for the brake shoes, which should be cleaned and lubricated. Brake shoes also require lubrication at pivot and contact points between the shoes and hardware.

Inspection

Determining what is required for a complete brake job can only be done through inspection and disassembly. It’s easy to see worn-out pads and rusty rotors through a wheel, but even when that’s evident, you can’t see anything else until you take things apart. This is when you inspect for brake-fluid leaks, seized or damaged hardware, torn dust boots and functional bleeder screws.

If leaks are found or dust boots are torn on a caliper piston or wheel cylinder, or if the bleeder won’t open, the components need to be replaced. Only until disassembly is performed during an inspection can you say absolutely what’s needed for any given vehicle. Sure, we can all look at a 50,000-mile four-year-old vehicle and say that it needs pads and rotors, and most likely those are the only hard parts it will need. But it’s no guarantee, and the higher the mileage and older the vehicle, the more likely we’ll find something else, which leads to the next category …

Recommending Parts

There’s always a way to work into the conversation of a complete brake job. The next time someone comes in and wants pads and rotors, you might ask, “Would you like me to look up caliper availability just in case a bleeder screw doesn’t open, or a caliper pin is seized?” If they’re an experienced technician, they know how often that happens, and they’ll likely say yes, just to know in case they need them, and they’ll appreciate it!

If they’re new at all this, it will get them thinking and open the door for your advice. The next thing you know, they might change their mind and decide to buy new calipers – or at minimum they’ll leave with the extra goodies they need for a complete brake job, such as brake lubricant, brake fluid, brake cleaner and some shop rags. If they get into the job and realize there’s a problem, they’ll be right back at your store.

The post

link hidden, please login to view
appeared first on
link hidden, please login to view
.

link hidden, please login to view

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Counterman
      Motorcar Parts of America (MPA) announced the company has expanded its product coverage programs for starters and alternators, brake calipers, brake pads and brake rotors, with more than 120 new part numbers covering an additional 30 million vehicles in operation.
      The new part numbers are offered through QB, Quality-Built, Quality-Built Black Series and Pure Energy brands powered by MPA, which serve the professional installer market. A select list of late model part number introductions is available via the link below. A complete list is available by contacting a
      link hidden, please login to view sales representative. “Our Quality-Built and Pure Energy products continue to gain traction in the professional market and the new part number introductions highlight our ongoing commitment to proactively develop, catalog, and distribute products to meet the demand,” said Jamie Cook, senior vice president of sales and marketing for Motorcar Parts of America.

      link hidden, please login to view The post
      link hidden, please login to view appeared first on link hidden, please login to view.
      link hidden, please login to view
    • By Clifford Auto Parts
      Your car’s control module is one of the most important components in ensuring a smooth and efficient ride. Whether it’s an Engine Control Module (ECM), Powertrain Control Module (PCM), or Transmission Control Module (TCM), these electronic units play a crucial role in regulating engine performance, fuel efficiency, and transmission behavior.
      At Clifford Auto Parts, we specialize in providing OEM control modules that guarantee compatibility, reliability, and long-term performance. But how do you know when it’s time to replace your control module? Let’s break it down!
      ✅ What Is a Control Module and What Does It Do?
      A control module is an onboard computer that processes data from various sensors in your car and makes real-time adjustments to optimize performance. Some of the most common control modules include:
      ✔️ Engine Control Module (ECM) – Controls ignition timing, fuel injection, and emissions.
      ✔️ Powertrain Control Module (PCM) – Manages both engine and transmission functions.
      ✔️ Transmission Control Module (TCM) – Regulates gear shifting and transmission efficiency.
      ✔️ Body Control Module (BCM) – Handles electrical functions such as lighting, locks, and windows.
      When these modules start to fail, your car may experience serious performance issues that could lead to costly repairs.
      ✅ Signs of a Failing Control Module
      If your control module is going bad, your car will usually give you warning signs. Here are the top indicators that it may be time for a replacement:
      🚨 Check Engine Light Stays On
      If your Check Engine Light won’t turn off even after repairs, it could be due to a failing ECM or PCM.
      🚨 Poor Fuel Efficiency
      A malfunctioning control module may send incorrect signals, leading to excess fuel consumption and reduced mileage.
      🚨 Difficulty Starting the Car
      If your car struggles to start, the ECM might not be properly managing the fuel and ignition system.
      🚨 Transmission Issues
      A faulty PCM or TCM can cause hard shifting, gear slipping, or delayed acceleration.
      🚨 Engine Stalling or Misfiring
      A failing ECM can result in irregular combustion cycles, leading to stalling, misfires, and sluggish performance.
      🚨 Electrical Malfunctions
      The BCM controls many electronic functions, so if your power windows, locks, or headlights start acting up, it may be time for a replacement.
      ✅ What Causes Control Modules to Fail?
      Several factors can lead to a control module failure, including:
      🔥 Water or Moisture Damage – Exposure to moisture can corrode internal circuits.
      ⚡ Voltage Surges – A faulty alternator or battery can overload the control module.
      🔧 Worn-Out Components – Over time, electronic components degrade, leading to failure.
      💥 Physical Damage – Accidents or engine overheating can cause module failure.
      If you’re experiencing any of these issues, replacing your control module can prevent further damage and restore your vehicle’s performance.
      ✅ Why Choose an OEM Control Module Over Aftermarket?
      When replacing a control module, you have two options: OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) or Aftermarket. Here’s why OEM control modules are the best choice:
      ✔️ Guaranteed Compatibility – Designed specifically for your vehicle’s make and model.
      ✔️ Pre-Programmed for Plug-and-Play Use – No extra programming needed.
      ✔️ Factory-Tested for Reliability – OEM parts undergo rigorous quality checks.
      ✔️ Maintains Vehicle Warranty – Aftermarket parts may void manufacturer warranties.
      ✔️ Longer Lifespan – OEM modules are built to last, unlike some aftermarket options.
      ✅ Why Buy OEM Control Modules from Clifford Auto Parts?
      At Clifford Auto Parts, we provide high-quality OEM control modules at unbeatable prices. Here’s why thousands of vehicle owners trust us:
      ✔️ OEM-Grade Control Modules for Ford, Dodge, Jeep, and More
      ✔️ Pre-Programmed & Ready to Install – No Dealership Required
      ✔️ Lifetime Warranty on ECM, PCM, and TCM Replacements
      ✔️ Fast & Free Nationwide Shipping – Receive Your Part in 3 Business Days
      ✔️ Expert Customer Support to Help You Find the Right Module
      🚗 Looking for a replacement control module? Shop now at link hidden, please login to view and get back on the road with confidence!
      ✅ How to Install Your New Control Module
      1️⃣ Disconnect the Battery – Prevents electrical damage.
      2️⃣ Locate the Module – Found under the hood, near the firewall, or in the cabin.
      3️⃣ Remove the Old Module – Carefully disconnect all wiring and mounting bolts.
      4️⃣ Install the New OEM Module – Secure it and reconnect wiring.
      5️⃣ Test Your Vehicle – Start your car and check for warning lights or error codes.
      📌 Need help finding the right part? Call (516) 494-7838 for expert assistance!
      ✅ Final Thoughts: Get the Right Control Module for Your Car
      A failing control module can cause engine trouble, transmission problems, and electrical failures—but replacing it with an OEM module ensures long-term reliability, compatibility, and optimal performance.
      🔧 Don’t let a bad control module ruin your driving experience! Get a high-quality replacement today at link hidden, please login to view 🔧
      📞 Have questions? Call (516) 494-7838 for expert support.
      🚀 Fast Shipping – Lifetime Warranty – 100% Customer Satisfaction! 🚀

    • By Counterman
      PRT announced the launch of 42 complete strut assemblies in the North American Aftermarket. They cover models like the BMW X3, Ford F-150, Chevy Tahoe and Jeep Compass, in addition to brand-new applications such as the Tesla Y 2023, RAM 1500 2023, Jeep Grand Cherokee 2023 and Toyota Tacoma 2023 among others, according to
      link hidden, please login to view. “As an OE supplier, we are continually investing in research and development of new products to serve both OE and Aftermarket sectors, allowing us to provide the latest innovations to our customers in North America,” said Bruno Bello, director of global marketing at
      link hidden, please login to view. For more information, call 1-770-238-1611, visit 
      link hidden, please login to view, or follow @prtautoparts. The post
      link hidden, please login to view appeared first on link hidden, please login to view.
      link hidden, please login to view
    • By abiztime
      Various Types of Bearing Brake Disc(source from :rdbrake.com)
      The primary function of bearing brake discs is to provide a stable and reliable surface for the brake pads to grip, thereby facilitating effective braking. When the brake pedal is pressed, the brake pads clamp onto the spinning brake disc, generating friction that slows down the wheel's rotation. The bearings within the brake disc assembly ensure smooth and consistent rotation, minimizing wear and tear on the braking system.
      Types of Bearing Brake Discs
      Ventilated Brake Discs: These discs feature internal vanes or vents that allow air to circulate, dissipating heat more efficiently. They are commonly used in high-performance vehicles and heavy-duty applications where heat management is crucial.
      Solid Brake Discs: These are simple, flat discs without internal vents. They are typically used in smaller or lighter vehicles where excessive heat build-up is less of a concern.
      Drilled and Slotted Discs: These discs have holes and grooves that enhance heat dissipation and improve braking performance, especially under extreme conditions. They also help in expelling dust and debris from the braking surface.
      Composite Brake Discs: Made from a combination of materials such as cast iron and carbon composites, these discs offer superior performance, reduced weight, and enhanced heat resistance. They are often found in high-end sports cars and racing applications.
      Maintenance of Bearing Brake Discs

      Regular maintenance of bearing brake discs is essential to ensure the longevity and reliability of the braking system. Key maintenance practices include:
      Inspection: Regularly inspect the brake discs for signs of wear, such as grooves, cracks, or uneven surfaces. This can prevent potential brake failure.
      Cleaning: Keep the brake discs clean from dust, dirt, and debris. Use appropriate cleaning solutions and tools to avoid damaging the surface.
      Lubrication: Ensure that the bearings are properly lubricated to reduce friction and prevent overheating. Use the recommended type and amount of lubricant for optimal performance.
      Replacement: Replace the brake discs when they show significant signs of wear or when they reach the manufacturer's recommended lifespan. Timely replacement can prevent more severe damage to the braking system.
       

    • By abiztime
      Various Packaging way of Brake Discs( from RDBRAKE.COM)
      In the automotive parts industry, as the key safety components, the packaging design of brake discs is not only related to the product's market image, but also directly affects consumers' purchasing decisions.
      1. Plastic bag
            Generally, brake discs are first packed in a plastic bag. The plastic bag will be sealed as customers' requirement.

      2.  Neutral white box and kraft paper box: low cost.

      3.  Neutral colorful box for brake discs

      4,  Colorful pizza box for brake discs

      5, Pallet


×
  • Create New...