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REESE® Towpower Carbon Forged Ball Mounts

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    • Counterman
      Westar Releases New Mounts, Suspension Components
      By Counterman
      Westar Distribution LLC, a leading aftermarket supplier of engine & transmission mounts and air suspension components announces the release of 40 new Air Suspension Components, Engine & Transmission Mounts, Torque Strut Mounts, and Center Support Bushings servicing in excess of 35,000,000 vehicles in operation today in the US & Canada covering Acura, BMW, Dodge Truck, Ford Sport Utility, GMC Trucks, Honda, Hyundai, Jeep, Lexus, and Toyota vehicles. These newly released items are all in stock and ready for immediate shipment.  
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    • Counterman
      Why Mounts Fail
      By Counterman
      Of all the different mounts on a vehicle, the most attention is given to engine and transmission mounts. Why? Because they cause the most noticeable symptoms when they go bad, and they go bad the most often. But why do they fail?
      The answer lies in what they are and what they do. A mount is nothing more than a specific component that secures one item to another. However, what separates a mount from a bracket, for example, is its ability to prevent vibration transfer between the two components. In the case of an engine or transmission mount, they isolate vibration transfer to the vehicle frame, as well as dampen the movement of the powertrain.
      This makes vehicle operation smoother for the driver, but the necessity of them is greater than just comfort. They also prevent the fatigue and cracking of metal – an occurrence that would be commonplace if engines were bolted directly to the frames. It takes no wild guess to figure out that rubber is the material responsible for it all. Take a piece of rubber, bond it between two pieces of metal, and you have a mount.
      So, getting down to it, here’s why they fail.
      Age
      Rubber weakens with age, just like it does on tires. Now think of the force that’s exerted on an engine mount every time you accelerate. The torque of the engine attempts to twist it, pulling and stretching on one mount and pushing and collapsing another. Do this over and over again thousands of times and it’s impressive that these mounts last as long as they do.
      Sometimes the rubber just tears. Other times it separates from one of the metal plates that it’s bonded or secured to. Some mounts may not tear or separate, based on their enclosed design, but the rubber can shrink or become distorted, allowing for excessive movement. It’s all just about age and use. It just happens.
      Contamination
      Rubber and oil don’t like each other much. Oil degrades the integrity of the rubber, causing it to soften and swell. Oil contamination is common on engine or transmission mounts due to engine-oil or transmission-fluid leaks. Eventually, the rubber tears or separates, but prematurely compared to the normal lifespan of a mount. The ultimate cause is the oil leak. If a customer is replacing a mount that’s soaked with oil, the oil leak should be addressed at the same time, or the new mount will quickly begin to degrade.
      Abuse
      Engine and transmission mounts are designed to withstand the normal use any given vehicle is designed for. Abuse comes from repeated hard acceleration or launches. “Power” braking a vehicle to prepare for a hard launch is another example. If a vehicle is modified to increase the power, this is more than the mounts were designed to handle and they can quickly be destroyed.
      To combat this problem, many solutions have been used over the years to limit engine movement. A common “old-school” trick on muscle cars was to install a chain between the engine block and frame, and yes, we all did it, as silly as it might have looked!
      Racers looked to solid engine mounts or engine plates to keep all that horsepower in check. Of course, that’s the extreme, and the development of polyurethane offers an in-between solution. Polyurethane is stronger than rubber and can handle more abuse, making these types of mounts very common for performance applications. But they don’t dampen vibration as well, so be prepared to sacrifice comfort.
      Misalignment
      A common but often overlooked cause is improper installation. Every mount has a specific procedure that should be followed for installation, allowing it to sit in its natural state when at rest. When these procedures aren’t followed, a mount can end up twisted or distorted at rest, which will lead to premature failure.
      Active Engine Mounts
      Active engine mounts are any that can vary the amount of dampening they provide, depending on engine speed. They utilize hydraulic fluid internally and either electric or vacuum control. When these go bad, it’s usually caused by aging rubber that cracks, allowing the hydraulic fluid to leak out. But, it also can be caused by a problem with the vacuum or electric controls. It may sound weird for someone to say, “My engine mount is leaking.” But, if they have an active engine mount, they may be right!.
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    • Counterman
      Ball Joints: How Much Play Is Too Much?
      By Counterman
      When ball joints are on the counter, what’s the No. 1 upsell? Shop rags, latex gloves and floor cleaner, because it’s going to be a messy job!
      Seriously, though, it depends on the suspension. For light cars and trucks with strut-type suspension, most ball joints aren’t greaseable, and most of them only have one lower control arm on each side, resulting in only one lower ball joint on each side (multi-link suspensions are another story). Most of these are a cakewalk to replace, and you barely get your hands dirty. But, heavier trucks and older cars with upper-lower A-arm suspension and greaseable joints are a different story. That’s when it gets real.
      But before we start wiping up grease, let’s look at two of the stickier aspects of ball joints: inspection and installation. Ball joints have wear specifications, and the maximum allowable play as well as proper inspection procedures can vary considerably between different applications. When checking a ball joint for wear, technically speaking, not only should we confirm the recommended procedure and specifications, but we also are always supposed to check them using a dial indicator. In the real world, that rarely happens.
      Most technicians understand that a little bit of play in a ball joint is normal and acceptable. But at the same time, there’s a common misconception that any play in a ball joint means it’s wearing out. The root of the problem goes deeper than this article can cover, but let’s face it: Time is money, and taking the time to look up specs, set up a dial indicator (if you have one) and recording the readings just isn’t realistic, especially when a shop manager is breathing down your neck for a diagnosis.
      Another part of the problem is when you check a ball joint for wear, you always can feel even the slightest amount of play – so again, rather than performing the correct procedure, it’s easier to estimate the free play in your mind based on your familiarity with these types of measurements.
      You can’t always see the movement when it’s minimal, but the worse it gets, the easier it is to see. Experienced technicians are good at recognizing when the amount of play is still “acceptable,” or when a ball joint is – as we like to call them when the vehicle isn’t safe to drive – “wasted.” When a ball joint exhibits wear but still is acceptable and safe for use, that’s how we represent it to the customer, and we’ll just recommend checking them again at the next service. “Let’s keep an eye on those ball joints,” we might say.
      This all might sound like I’m criticizing technicians, but that’s far from the case. I’ve been a tech my whole life and it can be tough to wear our shoes. There’s a lot we need to know – we’re all human – and we do make mistakes. When it comes to parts, we rely on the knowledge of a counterperson more often than you realize. One of the strongest traits of a good technician is understanding that you don’t know everything, and not being afraid to ask questions or accept advice. In the case of ball joints, they usually don’t come with specifications, and there’s rarely any information with them aside from installing the grease fitting. And when they do come with information, does it always get read? You probably can guess the answer. This is the real world of automotive repair.
      As crazy as it sounds, when you’re deep into a suspension repair with parts and tools all over the place, it can seem like it takes an eternity to unbox a bunch of parts and remove them from their plastic bags, etc. – so again, it’s no surprise that details are missed should they happen to be included. It’s worth its weight in gold when we learn something we don’t know about any particular part, and we’re always eager to learn.
      If the line between misconception and mistake isn’t blurry enough, there’s an extra kicker with ball joints. Some vehicles utilize telescoping ball joints. What this means is that the ball-joint stud telescopes a small amount to compensate for manufacturing tolerances, primarily related to the ears of a steering knuckle.
      When you install one of these joints, it may appear as if the stud is too long or too short, potentially causing a technician to think it’s the incorrect joint. Also, since the stud is engineered to slide in and out of the housing, they can exhibit as much as .060” (sixty-thousandths of an inch) of free play. For comparison, .060” is about the thickness of a penny, and while this amount of play rarely would be represented as unsafe, it could easily be misdiagnosed as a worn joint.
      This may turn out to be more important in the case of a warranty concern. I’m sure it wouldn’t be the first time you had a part returned as defective and you were surprised by it. This is when your knowledge can save time and money for your company as well as for a technician, shop and the end customer. Information like this often doesn’t make it to a technician level, and it’s a great opportunity for you to educate and build rapport with your customers at the same time.
      Replacing Control Arms
      Where do control arms come into the picture? Independent suspension, be it front or rear, has been around for a long time. There are many different types, of which upper-lower A-arm, MacPherson strut and multi-link are the most common variations we deal with today. One thing they all have in common is some type of control arm.
      To put a simple spin on it, any control arm is nothing more than a link between the fixed frame of a vehicle and the steering knuckle – the component that in turn provides a mounting point for the brakes, wheel bearings and wheels. Control arms move freely up and down in response to suspension movement and not only offer mounting points for springs and sway bars, but they also are integral to suspension design, affecting the alignment angles and suspension travel.
      The control arm also carries another distinction: It offers a provision for mounting a ball joint to provide articulation between the arm and steering knuckle. Ball joints are either bolt-on or press-in, and in many cases on newer vehicles, the ball joint is an integral part of the control arm. If you have to replace the ball joint, you have to replace the entire arm.
      Control arms are either steel, cast-iron or aluminum, and the most important factor when replacing a press-in style of ball joint is making sure the hole in the control arm isn’t worn. Generally, if there’s no visible damage or corrosion to the control arm and the old ball joint requires considerable force to remove, as long as the new joint requires a similar force to install, the control arm will be OK.
      However, since we don’t have the technology (in our shops) to measure the roundness and integrity of the hole, many manufacturers recommend to only replace a press-in style ball joint one time. The next time, the whole arm should be replaced, and this is good advice to pass along to your customer.
      As with any type of suspension work, any torque-to-yield fasteners should be replaced, torque specifications always should be utilized, and in the case of control-arm replacement, fasteners should be torqued with the vehicle at ride height.
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    • Counterman
      Active Motor Mounts
      By Counterman
      Here’s a scenario: A customer comes into your store looking for an engine mount, and they brought the old one in with them. You’re looking the mount over in your hands, and you notice an electrical connector or vacuum port on the bottom side. What could that possibly be for? It’s just an engine mount, right?
      An electrical or vacuum connection on an engine mount indicates that it’s an active mount. So, what do you and your customer need to know about these mounts?
      The Evolution of Motor Mounts
      In the past, engines and transmissions were supported by simple rubber mounts. All engines produce vibrations – also known as noise, vibration and harshness (NVH). The natural flexibility of the rubber would allow the mounts to absorb NVH and prevent them from being transferred into the vehicle cabin. But as engines evolved over the years, motor mounts needed to be able to handle different conditions.
      Hydraulic motor mounts were developed to help counteract the NVH that was produced by more modern engines. A non-hydraulic mount typically will feature a number of empty internal voids. These voids are a product of clever engineering, and they allow for deflection/compression in a specific direction when placed under load. Hydraulic bushings fill those empty voids with a fluid. This fluid works like a hydraulic damper, while still allowing for deflection/compression when under load.
      The word “hydraulic” might imply that hydraulic fluid or oil is used inside these mounts. However, they typically use a glycol mixture instead. Oil or hydraulic fluid would break down the rubber inside the bushing and cause it to fail prematurely. If you’ve ever seen a radiator hose swell up after it was exposed to engine oil, you know what I’m talking about.
      But, engines continued to evolve, and the motor mounts needed to stand up to even tougher operating conditions. Modern engines make more power with less displacement, are more compact than ever before and may utilize cylinder deactivation and/or engine stop/start to help reduce emissions. It’s safe to say that modern motor mounts needed to evolve to absorb NVH and hold up to the added workload.
      Active motor mounts were developed in response to this need. Instead of relying solely on the flexibility of the rubber, or the damping effect of the hydraulic fluid, active mounts use vacuum or electrical signals to change the firmness based on operation criteria. Let’s take a look at how these mounts operate, and then we’ll go over a few pointers when talking to your customers.
      How Do Active Motor Mounts Work?
      Early active mounts used engine vacuum to change the damping behavior of the mount based on operating conditions. High engine vacuum at idle will make the mount more compliant and it will absorb NVH with ease. Then, when the vehicle starts to accelerate, the engine vacuum will drop. This causes the mount to firm up, and prevent excessive engine movement under load.
      Electronically controlled active mounts work in a similar fashion, but without using engine vacuum. Electronic mounts will use an electronic actuator, which is controlled by the ECU. The ECU is able to change the firmness of the mount based on its programming and sensor input data. Their main advantage comes in the form of speed and precision. The mount is able to alter its operation at will, without needing to rely on engine vacuum. More advanced electronic mounts are able to generate counter vibrations that help to cancel out the vibrations coming from the engine, much like a balance shaft helps to cancel out vibrations generated by the engines rotating assembly.
      Active mounts are found on a number of late-model vehicles, including Audi, Honda, Hyundai, Jaguar, Lexus, Toyota and others. Active motor mounts will be more expensive to replace than non-active mounts, but their benefits far outweigh the cost difference.
      Considerations During Service
      All mounts eventually will wear out and need to be replaced. Active mounts might crack, rip, tear or sag just the same as non-active mounts will. Hydraulic fluid might leak from the mount, and this is a big giveaway. Failing mounts typically will exhibit one or more of the following symptoms:
      • Clunking or knocking noises on or off throttle (as the engine rocks back and forth)
      • Evidence of fluid leaks coming from the mounts
      • Excessive engine movement
      • Increased NVH transferring into the vehicle cabin
      • An illuminated “Check Engine” light, and DTCs stored in the ECU
      Remember that a leaky hydraulic or active mount could be mistaken for an engine-oil leak. Be sure to advise your customer to thoroughly inspect the vacuum hoses and/or wiring harnesses and connectors for any signs of wear, damage or corrosion. A faulty electrical connection or vacuum hose could trigger a DTC, and the engine mount could be wrongly condemned as the faulty component. Test for power at the vacuum-control solenoid. If power is present, check the fuse and wiring next.
      We strongly recommend replacing mounts in pairs at the very least, but ideally, all engine and transmission mounts should be replaced together. If one has failed, chances are high that the others are close behind.
      Excessive drivetrain movement can cause other components to wear prematurely. The service life of driveshafts, CV axles and other components can be reduced if the drivetrain mounts are worn out or loose. If they’ve suffered a CV-joint failure, it’s a good idea to take a good, hard look at the engine and transmission mounts. Excessive engine movement also can increase the likelihood of hoses or lines stretching, rubbing or failing. Throttle linkage could bind or stick, assuming that the vehicle uses a cable rather than drive-by-wire. A faulty transmission mount can cause driveline noises, especially when starting off from a stop or accelerating. In extreme cases, the operation of the clutch can be affected as well.
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    • Counterman
      Westar Releases 58 New Engine And Transmission Mounts
      By Counterman
      Westar Industries, a Columbia, Maryland-based supplier of aftermarket engine and transmission mounts and air-suspension components, recently announced the release of 58 new engine and transmission mounts.
      These newly released items are all in stock and ready for immediate shipment.
      The 58 items serve more than 30,569,261 registered vehicles currently in operation, according to the company.
      For more information, contact [email protected] or visit
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