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What does an OBD-II “P” code mean?
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By CALEPH Auto Parts
The car air filter (commonly known as air filter or air filter) plays a very important role in the car engine system. Here are the main functions of the car air filter:
1. Filter impurities:
It is able to capture dust, sand, pollen and other particulate matter in the air and prevent these impurities from entering the engine.
2. Protect engine components:
By filtering out these impurities, the air filter helps protect the components inside the engine, such as cylinders, pistons and valves, from wear and damage.
3. Maintain engine performance:
Clean air is essential for the efficient combustion of the engine. A good air filter ensures that the engine gets the right amount of clean air, which helps improve fuel efficiency and power output.
4. Extend engine life:
By reducing debris that can cause friction and damage, the air filter helps extend the life of the engine.
5. Improve fuel efficiency:
When the engine is able to work with clean air, it can burn fuel more efficiently, which can lead to better fuel economy.
6. Reduce Emissions:
A clean air filter can also help reduce harmful emissions, ensuring that the engine runs at its best and doesn't burn fuel in an incomplete or dirty manner.
7. Prevent Engine Knock:
Impurities can cause engine knocking or knocking noises, which are signs of inefficient combustion. A good air filter can help prevent this.
Regularly checking and replacing air filters is part of your car's regular maintenance to ensure these benefits are maintained.
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By Counterman
On modern vehicles, overheating is a rare occurrence thanks to high-quality hoses, thermostats and better engine management. Unfortunately, the weak point is still the coolant. Whether it’s a 100,000-mile or 150,000-mile coolant, eventually it will break down and lose the ability to protect the components with which it comes into contact.
Coolant at 100,000 miles may look the same as coolant with zero miles, as the real difference between good and bad coolant can’t be seen with the naked eye; it is in the chemistry and based on mileage.
Coolant contains additives called buffers that keep it at a neutral pH but these buffers are meant to last forever. When these chemicals become depleted, the pH can’t be controlled. It rises dramatically in a short period of time the moment the buffers are fully depleted. This is why replacing the coolant at the recommended interval is critical.
Coolant has two specifications that can be used to justify replacement — the condition of the additive package and the freezing point.
The additive package is the secret sauce for a coolant. Its main function is to control corrosion. Other components of the additive help with heat transfer and cavitation reduction. Some additive packages use seal conditioners to extend the life of the gaskets and plastic carriers.
The freezing point is measured by the overall specific gravity of the coolant, which has a direct relationship to the coolant/water mixture. This test can help spot coolant that has been compromised by the owner topping off with water. This measurement works well on systems that do not have pressurized reservoirs.
The strength or freezing point of coolant can be measured with a simple hydrometer. This device uses a calibrated float or plastic balls (not as accurate) to show the specific gravity of the coolant. This, in turn, shows how much freezing/boiling protection the coolant offers. You must remember to compensate for temperature because the specific gravity (density) of the coolant is lower when the coolant is hot.
The more professional tool for this purpose is an optical refractometer because it is very accurate and automatically compensates for temperature. Be aware: these are not simple, inexpensive tools. A refractometer can cost up to $300 or more because of the precision optics in its lens. Ethylene glycol (EG) and polyethylene glycol (PG) antifreeze have slightly different densities, so you have to use a hydrometer or refractometer with the appropriate scale (or one with a dual scale) for accurate test results.
Color-coded chemical test strips that are dipped into the coolant can be used to quickly and easily reveal the condition of the coolant. These strips of coated capillary paper react to the presence of certain dissolved minerals in the coolant and change color to give a good, marginal or bad indication of the coolant’s pH condition. Some test strips also show the concentration of antifreeze in the coolant.
The added benefit of test strips is that the results can be shared with the owner by attaching the used strip to the inspection form.
But, mileage is the gold standard for any coolant replacement recommendation. Engineers and chemists spend a lot of time formulating the coolant to match the engine and interval.
If you are performing a water pump, heater core or hose repair, recommend a full coolant flush. Just topping off the coolant can lead to a mixed bag when measuring the pH and freezing point. Also, check the specific gravity before a repair. Many customers know how to top off their coolant with water that could dilute the coolant concentration.
Selling any fluid maintenance service is difficult these days. But, if you document and educate customers on the importance of coolant, it becomes more than just an “add on” service.
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By chevyguy
I've got a 2014 Chevy Equinox with new pluigs, coils, fuel injectors, recent top-engine carbon clean, new AC Delco O2 sensors, and relitively new CAT. Getting a P219A-00 for Fuel trim cyliner balance. Any ideas where to start diagnosing? I saw this online as possible causes:
Leaking or contaminated fuel injectors Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel Leaking evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve Exhaust or intake air system leaks Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is leaking or the valve is stuck open Ignition system Incorrectly seated engine oil dipstick, tube or oil fill cap Just curious if anyone has had this issue with a GMC of Chevy and succesfully diagnosed.
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