Jump to content

  • Welcome to Auto Parts Forum

    Whether you are a veteran automotive parts guru or just someone looking for some quick auto parts advice, register today and start a new topic in our forum. Registration is free and you can even sign up with social network platforms such as Facebook, X, and LinkedIn. 

     

Recommended Posts

Posted

rssImage-42cc721ac3348a1e1bf40e3f219e7568.jpeg

A constant velocity (CV) axle includes the axle shaft itself, along with the inner and outer CV joints as an assembly. The shaft itself is a rather mundane part, although there is more to them than meets the eye, but I’ll get to that in a little bit.

Perhaps the most interesting part about a CV axle is the joints, but it all seems more significant when we first look into their predecessor, the infamous u-joint. U-joints can handle a lot of torque, but they have a downside in the nature of their operating characteristics.

The basics are this: u-joints are located on the ends of a driveshaft, the most typical configuration a rear-wheel-drive vehicle, in which the joints are connected to a front and rear yoke. The front yoke attaches to the transmission and the rear yoke attaches to rear differential. As the engine moves from the effects of torque and as the suspension of a vehicle travels up and down, the angle of the driveshaft changes.

U-joints transfer the motion between the yoke(s) and driveshaft at different angles, allowing for driveline movement. When a yoke and the driveshaft are in perfect alignment, the velocity from one is transferred to the other at the same rate. However, when there is an angle between the two, the velocity of the driven member fluctuates continuously during rotation.

It can be hard to visualize, but the reason this happens is that as the angle of the u-joint changes, the two halves of the u-joint cross are forced to rotate on a different axis. The drive axis remains at a constant velocity, and both ends of the u-joint cross rotate in the same consistent
circular path.

The driven axis, however, rotates in a path which causes the distance of travel at the outer ends of the u-joint cross to increase or decrease in relation to the consistent points of the
drive axis.

This effect results in the continuous fluctuation of velocity between the input and output sides. While the input remains at a consistent speed, the output speeds up and slows down as the points of the driven axis continuously alter between a long and short path of travel.

So, why don’t we feel that on a vehicle with a traditional driveshaft? Because there are two u-joints and the fluctuation on each end balances out, effectively allowing the driveshaft to provide a consistent output speed to the rear differential. The angle of the two joints must be the same, however, and it doesn’t take much wear in one for the angles to differ, and subsequently cause a vibration.

U-joints are known for their propensity to cause vibration, and the other disadvantage they have is the greater the angle of the u-joint, the greater the fluctuation in velocity. Anything over 30 degrees and the fluctuation dramatically increases. Have you ever noticed how jittery an old four-wheel-drive truck feels in the front when the hubs are locked, and you turn a corner? Now you know why.  

A Double-Cardan u-joint. It is basically two u-joints side-by side with a common link-yoke in between. This is one of the original concepts for a true constant velocity (CV) joint, and they are often referred to as this. The advantage they have is they offer smoother operation at greater angles, and they are common on four-wheel-drive trucks, and also a common upgrade for lifted trucks where the driveshaft angle is altered considerably.

The drawback to a Double-Cardan joint is they are bulky, and they can still suffer from limitations due to operating angle. True CV joints, as we know them today, have been around since the early 20th century, but the popularity of the front-wheel-drive (FWD) vehicle is what made them a household name.

Today’s CV joints are a radical departure from anything resembling a u-joint, and not only do CV joints transfer power without speed fluctuation, but they also can operate at angles up to and exceeding 50 degrees, depending on the joint. Since the drive wheels on a FWD vehicle also steer, the ability for this increased operating angle is what makes the CV joint so beneficial for FWD. 

A FWD vehicle has two CV shafts, one on each side, and each shaft features an outboard and inboard joint. The outboard joints are considered fixed joints, meaning they don’t offer in and out movement. It’s their ability to operate at the increased angles for steering that’s important. The inboard joints are considered plunge joints, meaning they offer a wide range of inner and outer directional movement in order to take up for length differences as the suspension travels up and down.

You’ll see two types of CV joints. One is the Rzeppa design, which features steel balls trapped in a cage and riding on an inner and outer race. The tri-pod design is the second, which features three roller bearings that ride in a race or cage, sometimes referred to as a tulip assembly. Both types of joints can be found in either a fixed or plunging design for outboard or inboard use, but the Rzeppa design has proven more popular as an outboard joint. The Rzeppa works well as an inboard joint too, but the tri-pod design gets the nod for the most effective operation as a plunge joint.

link hidden, please login to view
Typical Rzeppa CV joint design.

The CV shafts themselves can differ in length from side to side, and in early FWD development, torque steer, the vehicle pulling one direction or the other during acceleration, was sometimes a result of this difference. Different diameter shafts as well as hollow versus solid became part of the design aspects to combat this problem. Drivetrain mounting and torque control has also advanced considerably since the early days of FWD, and torque steer is rarely a problem.

Due to their overall advantages, CV shafts are now utilized front and rear, and it’s not uncommon to see driveshafts that feature CV joints instead of u-joints. U-joints aren’t forgotten, however, due to their ability to handle high torque and work well in abusive environments that may not be so friendly to the boot on a CV joint (such as the exposed location of a driveshaft under a truck).  

link hidden, please login to view
Typical U-joint.

CV joints are packed with a specially formulated grease, and a rubber boot is sealed to both the CV shaft and the joint, to keep the grease in place. When a boot is torn or begins to leak, the grease goes away, and dirt gets inside. CV joints typically need no service until this happens.

There was a time when the most common service for a bad boot was to remove the CV joint, take it apart, clean it, repack it and install a new boot. Generally, this was routine, however from time to time you could experience a nightmare. Much of the reason we replaced the boots and serviced the joints in this manner was due to the high cost of a replacement joint or a complete shaft. Even with the additional labor, it was far more cost effective to replace just the boot.

Over time, with advancements in manufacturing and the availability of supplies, the cost of complete CV shafts went down, and it simply made more sense to replace them as a complete unit, not to mention it makes things easier for technicians.

The most important part of selling a new CV shaft is making sure it’s the correct one. You should compare shaft length, the size of the CV joints, and if the vehicle is equipped with antilock brakes with a tone ring on the outer CV joint, be sure the replacement has this ring. Some early CV joints had the tone ring cast into them, but that design was quickly abandoned for a press-fit tone ring. If your customer doesn’t yet have the original shaft out, recommend they make these comparisons prior to installing the
new shaft.

Some CV shaft applications come with an ABS tone ring installed, regardless of whether or not the vehicle is equipped with ABS. If not, in most cases, the ring has no consequence, however in the rare situation where it rubs or contacts something, the rings can be removed easily.

The final, and perhaps most important, recommendation is to always torque the fastener that secures the outer CV joint in the wheel hub. If the factory procedure is not adhered to and the correct torque specification not used, damage can and will occur to the wheel bearing. CM 

The post

link hidden, please login to view
appeared first on
link hidden, please login to view
.

link hidden, please login to view

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Similar Topics

    • By Counterman
      MOOG recently announced the launch of its new line of Constant Velocity (CV) Axles. A news release explained that MOOG’s CV axles are engineered with high-quality materials and undergo rigorous testing to ensure a precise fit across various vehicle models. These CV axles feature neoprene boots that help prevent dirt and moisture intrusion, heat-treated components for increased strength, and high-quality grease to provide optimal lubrication.

      link hidden, please login to view CV Axles represent MOOG’s commitment to providing problem-solving solutions,” said Thomas Galla, senior product manager at DRiV. “Our technician focus inspired the product design to be easy to install with an axle nut and inboard bolts included in each kit (where required), making vehicle maintenance a hassle-free experience.” The new CV Axles are compatible with a range of vehicle models. Notable compatible vehicles include the 2007-2020 Cadillac Escalade ESV (Front) with part number 10H002, boasting a vehicle in operation (VIO) of 9,710,288; the 2003-2009 Lexus GX470 (Front) with part number 14H002, which has a VIO of 4,998,289; and the 2002-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche 1500 (Front) featuring part number 10H001 and a VIO of 6,233,229.

      The post
      link hidden, please login to view appeared first on link hidden, please login to view.
      link hidden, please login to view
    • By Counterman
      Stabilizer bars. You may know them as sway bars or anti-sway bars. You may know them as roll bars or anti-roll bars. They’re all the same thing, and it’s generally understood they improve handling … but how?
      Any time a vehicle is turning, the forces that act upon it cause the body to roll, sway or tip away from the turn. It’s the laws of physics at work. In extreme situations, these forces can cause a vehicle to tip over, though that’s generally only the case with taller trucks and vans, and rare at that. You really have to be moving for that to occur. The real factor is how they negatively affect handling and how a stabilizer bar can prevent it from happening.
      Picturing this “tipping” affect helps us understand how a stabilizer bar works. When driving in a straight line, the weight of the vehicle is evenly distributed between left and right. In a turn, as the vehicle body leans, it shifts the weight to the tires on the outside of the turn, compressing the suspension on the outside in the process. This shift in weight causes a loss of traction on the inside, resulting in poor handling and potentially the loss of control.
      A stabilizer bar connects one side of the suspension to the other. They can be located in the front, rear or both. They’re mounted to the frame or body with brackets and bushings, and connect to the suspension at the control arms or struts. The connection at the suspension can be a bracket and bushing or a link, which is the most common today.
      When any suspension movement occurs, that movement is transferred into the stabilizer bar, which then is transferred through it to the suspension on the other side. This balances the compression of the suspension on both sides, eliminating body roll, balancing the weight distribution of the vehicle and providing optimum traction and handling.
      You’ve likely heard the terms oversteer and understeer. Understanding and controlling them is one of the most important aspects of performance driving, and it’s an important aspect of new-car design. They’re relevant in this context because both are affected directly by the action of the stabilizer bar.
      For this reason, adding or changing stabilizer bars is a common practice for those who look to improve the handling performance of their car. If you increase the stiffness of the rear stabilizer bar or decrease the stiffness of the front, you reduce understeer. If you increase the stiffness of the front stabilizer bar or decrease the stiffness of the rear, you reduce oversteer. Someone who is building their car for performance or racing will spend hours on stabilizer-bar adjustments alone until they “tune” the handling of their car.
      For many years, sway bars were just an option, or only located in the front. But due to the improvement in handling they provide, most of today’s cars and trucks have them.
      Stabilizer bars are just a piece of metal. Some are a solid bar, some are hollow. Each one offers different performance aspects in how much they twist versus how much force it can transfer to the other side of the suspension. In addition, performance stabilizer bars and/or their connecting links often are adjustable at each end to provide an additional range of tuning.
      One drawback associated with stabilizer bars is they can affect the overall ride quality of a vehicle. The stiffer the sway bar, the better a vehicle may handle – but the worse it will ride. In trucks and SUVs, the sway bar limits suspension travel, which is a drawback to those who use them for off-roading.
      Leave it up to technology to take it one step further with active and electronically disconnecting stabilizer bars. Active stabilizer bars are found on some luxury performance cars. They work by using an electric motor and gears to vary the stiffness of the stabilizer bar when needed for cornering. The ability of these systems to make instant corrections is nothing short of impressive with the outstanding handling characteristics they make possible.
      Electronically disconnecting stabilizer bars – popular on some new trucks and SUVs – use gearing similar to that in a manual transmission to physically disconnect the two halves of a stabilizer bar to allow maximum suspension movement. They will reconnect only once the vehicle is on level ground. Stabilizer bars are a fundamental part of suspension design and operation, and technology has made them even better. That’s something we all can “handle.”
      The post
      link hidden, please login to view appeared first on link hidden, please login to view.
      link hidden, please login to view
    • By Counterman
      Dana Incorporated has introduced the new Ultimate Dana 80 bracketless crate axles that are designed for easy installation on virtually any application. 
      Featuring Dana-engineered Dana 80 housing and a full-float design, the axles contain ultra-strong 4-inch tubes with 5/8-inch wall thickness and Spicer 40 spline nickel chromoly steel axle shafts.
      “Ultimate Dana 80 bracketless crate axles are designed for the toughest applications and provide unrivaled durability for custom builds,” said Bill Nunnery, senior director, sales and marketing, global aftermarket for Dana. “Enthusiasts can be assured that Ultimate Dana 80 bracketless axles provide a higher torque load, deliver peak protection from environmental contaminants, and perform well even in the most extreme off-road conditions.”
      Manufactured in Lugoff, South Carolina, Ultimate Dana 80 bracketless crate axles include Spicer performance ring and pinion gears in ratio 3.73 through 5.38. These crate axles provide maximum strength and durability for vehicles with larger tires, according to the company.  
      Featuring a Dana-engineered carrier with ribbed housing design, the Ultimate Dana 80 bracketless crate axles also include an ARB Air Locker, heavy-duty wheel bolt pattern (8 x 6.5 inches), Spicer 1410 strap-style/half-round end yokes and a 69-inch-width wheel-mount surface to wheel-mount surface.
      To learn more about the new Ultimate Dana 80 bracketless crate axles and Dana products, contact a Dana sales representative or visit
      link hidden, please login to view. The post
      link hidden, please login to view appeared first on link hidden, please login to view.
      link hidden, please login to view
    • By Counterman
      Platform-sharing” and “badge engineering” are terms often used to describe the common industry practice of developing multiple vehicle models from a common design. The economy of a single design underpinning multiple vehicles allows manufacturers to streamline the development process, and to provide the buyer with options across their base, mid-line and luxury divisions. Much of this “twinning” occurs within a manufacturer’s “family” of brands, but cooperating with rival manufacturers already well-established in a market allows the manufacturer to produce vehicles outside their wheelhouse.
      Ford Motor Co. has a long history of platform-sharing among its Ford, Lincoln and Mercury divisions, in addition to several collaborations with outside OEMs. As a global company for more than 100 years, Ford’s U.S. arm also has benefitted from the engineering of its European, Australian and Asian divisions.
      Since its establishment in 1939, Mercury was positioned as Ford’s mid-range division, filling the price gap between the Fords and Lincolns. Mercury served this role until 2010, when the division was shuttered. The last Mercury rolled off the assembly line in January 2011. That final Grand Marquis had shared the Panther platform with the Ford Crown Victoria and the Lincoln Town Car – two models that also would be discontinued later that year. Prior to its closure, Mercury also had offered mid-range versions of the Mustang (Capri), Taurus (Sable), Escape (Mariner) and Explorer (Mountaineer).
      Rebadging the Explorer has been a cottage industry for Ford. In addition to the Mountaineer, Lincoln offered the Aviator from 2003 to 2005, the MKT from 2010 to 2019 and the Aviator again beginning in 2020 (now based on the latest Explorer CD6 platform). After prior collaborations on Ford’s Courier and Ranger pickups, Mazda also was an early adopter of the first-generation Explorer platform. The Mazda Navajo was built alongside the Explorer in Louisville, Kentucky, from 1991 to 1994. Mazda and Ford later would co-develop the Tribute and Escape for 2001.
      This kind of sharing hasn’t always been the case at Ford. At the end of World War II, Ford of Canada divided up its dealer networks, establishing standalone “Ford” or “Lincoln-Mercury” dealers throughout Canada. An unforeseen outcome of this separation was that the Lincoln-Mercury dealers did not have economy models or trucks. In 1947, these dealers received the first of the “M-series” trucks, which essentially were re-badged F-series Fords. A budget line of “Meteor” passenger cars was introduced in 1949. Ford dealers received the “Monarch” line of mid-priced vehicles to fill the gap in their own lineups. This arrangement continued until the 1960s, when tariffs on vehicle trade across our northern border were eliminated.
      Mercury trucks were never sold in the United States, but in 1993, Mercury buyers were offered their first minivan, the Villager. This actually was a joint venture between Ford and Nissan, with Nissan-badged versions carrying the Quest nameplate. The Villager was assembled by Ford, but featured a 3-liter Nissan FWD drivetrain. It later would be replaced by the Windstar, which had no equivalent Mercury companion model at the time. The Windstar was renamed the Freestar for 2004, and regained a Mercury companion in the Monterey.
      Lincoln, founded in 1917 and purchased by Ford in 1922, still represents Ford’s luxury division. Long known for large cars like the Continental and the Town Car, Lincoln in 2021 transitioned exclusively to crossover and SUV platforms. Lincoln had even tried its hand at pickup trucks, with the 2002 Blackwood, and the 2006-2008 Mark LT. Both were rebranded luxury versions of the F-150 crew cab platform.
      In 2007, Lincoln adopted a new model-naming convention, playing on the heritage of the “Mark-series” nameplate used through 1998. The MKX and MKZ were the first of these, with the MKZ sedan being the Lincoln version of the Ford Fusion and Mercury Milan, and the MKX being a Ford Edge-based crossover (“X”-over). Originally intended to be spoken as “Mark-X” and “Mark-Z,” both vehicles were produced on the same CD3 platform originally developed for the Mazda 6. The MKS sedan (based on the Taurus) and the full-size Explorer-based MKT followed in 2009 and 2010, respectively.
      In 2015, the MKC compact crossover was introduced, built on the Escape platform. Lincoln has since dropped the “MK” designations in favor of proper names for its crossover and SUV lineup, which is a relief to anyone who has misheard or misspoken these similar-sounding model names while looking up parts!
      Ford-Lincoln-Mercury (FLM) dealerships once were a common sight here, with all three divisions available in one location. But, after a decade without Mercury, Ford-Lincoln dealers are fracturing yet again. In 2019, Lincoln began an initiative to develop standalone Lincoln dealerships to market more exclusively to the upscale clientele of the luxury-car market. Targeting 30 U.S. metro areas, Lincoln-only showrooms have already opened in half of the roughly 150 planned locations. Sales are up at these dealerships, but they still don’t have pickup trucks!
      The post
      link hidden, please login to view appeared first on link hidden, please login to view.
      link hidden, please login to view
    • By Counterman
      rack: noun
      1. The linear component of a rack and pinion gearset.
      2. The short name given to a rack and pinion steering assembly for an automobile.
      This is one of those times when the same word is used over and over to describe two things that are related but different. When I first learned about rack-and-pinion steering, it was anything but new. Nonetheless, in my world, I was used to traditional. I was among the guilty who shunned things that in no way could ever be better than a carburetor, points, condenser and crank windows.
      When it came to steering, if it didn’t have a steering box, pitman arm, idler arm and a center link, it probably wasn’t a real car.
      You laugh, but now, so do I. Automotive technology always has changed for the better, and rack-and-pinion steering just made sense. It was simple, less expensive, lighter-weight and simple to maintain. The term “rack and pinion” describes a type of gearset that transfers rotational motion into linear motion. In the case of an automotive application, the rack-and-pinion gearset is housed in a unit that we simply refer to as the steering rack, or rack for short.
      So, a steering rack transfers the rotational motion of the steering wheel into the linear motion required to move the tie rods left or right for steering. They initially became commonplace on small economy cars and were additionally well-suited for front-wheel-drive applications due to the limited space they require. Now, almost every new car, SUV and light truck on the market has rack-and-pinion steering.
      A simple design and low maintenance are benefits of a steering rack, but that doesn’t mean they haven’t caused a headache or two over the years – and there are many questions you’ll still field about these systems. While they’re too difficult to describe, the service aspect is where you’ll get most of the questions, and this is where your customers will benefit from your knowledge. After all, as a counter professional, you’re in the business of answering questions.
      Many early steering racks on small cars were simple manual racks with no hydraulic assist. These were my favorite. They rarely developed any problems and, in many cases, would last the life of the vehicle. Then, cars got heavier, people got softer and hydraulic power steering for the most part became standard. Today, electric power steering is taking over, and in many ways with the lack of a hydraulic pump, hoses, lines and leaks, it has brought back the simplicity of the original manual rack.
      Although many aspects are the same regardless of the type of assist, in this article I’m going to focus on hydraulic power-steering racks. They’re still going to be around for some time, and service considerations are where you’ll get most of your questions. Making sure the job is done right is important for not only safety and efficiency, but it also helps prevent unnecessary warranty hassles.
      First and foremost is power-steering fluid. It’s commonly overlooked and neglected. The valving and seals inside a hydraulic power-steering rack rely on clean fluid for proper operation, and just like any other fluid service, ignoring this can shorten the life of the steering rack. When replacing a rack, fluid should be drained and flushed as best as possible, and it’s a good idea – as well as a good upsell – to install an inline filter. Most of these types of filters work with a magnetic mesh that’s especially beneficial to trap small metal particles.
      One of the most common problems to arise is a torn rack boot. These rubber bellows-style boots expand and collapse every time you turn the wheels, and it’s just unavoidable that they eventually wear out. There are two immediate problems with this. One, the inner tie-rod ends will collect dirt in the grease that lubricates them, and two, dirt and debris will be drawn into the rack seals every time you turn, eventually causing damage and leaks.
      link hidden, please login to view Torn boots should be replaced as soon as possible when they’re discovered, and the vast majority of them require the removal of the outer tie-rod end. An alignment is required afterward – no ifs, ands or buts.
      Worn inner tie rods are another common problem, and while “technically” not part of the steering rack, service procedures can affect the integrity of the rack. Many new racks come with new inner tie rods and boots pre-installed to prevent damage from incorrect installation, so the boots keep everything sealed up from the start.
      Most of the time, replacing the inner tie rods requires a special tool, kind of like a deep socket on steroids – deep enough to reach over the length of the tie rod and access the inner end where it bolts to the rack. On the end of the tool is a half-inch square drive. The factor to be aware of is that by-the-book service procedures call for holding the rack (the actual internal component) in a soft jaw vise when removing or installing the inner tie rod, so you don’t twist it and risk damaging the pinion gear.
      The problem is in practice, this is rarely done because there’s no way to do it with the entire assembly installed in the car. There’s simply no access to get any type of holding fixture onto the actual rack. For fun, I looked up the top videos on the internet for installing inner tie-rod ends, and none of them mention holding the rack. Perhaps because they don’t want you to know they didn’t do it, or they don’t know the solution because there really isn’t a good one – at least not one I’ve learned of yet.
      You might be able to get locking pliers clamped onto the rack to hold it, but that would gouge the machine-finished surfaces and tear up the rack seal, so that’s out. So, how serious is the problem? Most inner tie rods don’t require very high torque, and many of them use a type of thread locker, a locking nut or a type of retainer to prevent loosening. The bottom line is, if you use hand tools to loosen and tighten the inner tie rod, and slowly torque it to the correct specification during installation, the pressure against the pinion is going to be minimal, and damage is unlikely.
      Whatever you do, use hand tools. Do not use an impact wrench on the end of the inner tie-rod tool. This will transfer a series of blows directly into the pinion and the valve assembly inside the unit, and you could be asking for trouble.
      As mentioned before, any time the rack or a tie-rod end is replaced, an alignment will need to be performed. But, just as important is any time the rack is being replaced, the steering shaft will be disconnected. Always make sure the steering wheel isn’t allowed to spin free, or the airbag clock spring will be damaged. Also, make sure the rack is in its centered position before initially disconnecting the steering shaft and before reinstalling it.
      Quite possibly the most useful tip for new steering-rack installation involves cleaning the splined steering-shaft connection. It’s a precision fit. In other words, both sets of splines need to be perfectly clean. If they are, they’ll slide right together. If not, you’ll fight it forever. Many new (or remanufactured) racks are painted, and it’s not uncommon for overspray to get on the splines. This may seem inconsequential, but the thickness of the paint is enough to cause a nightmare.
      There are many opportunities for upsells with steering racks and related services. Outer tie-rod ends are often replaced one at a time and, in many cases, this is all that’s needed. Still, it’s a good reminder to check the rack boots and other ends closely. Since an alignment will be required, it’ll save money in the long run to take care of any pending issues now.
      If you’re replacing an inner tie rod, you’ll already have the outer and the boot off. It’s often much easier to replace them too. Brake/parts cleaner is a good solvent for cleaning out reservoirs and lines, but make sure they’re allowed to completely dry before sealing the system up. I like to use clean power-steering fluid as a final flush to make sure any trace of solvent is gone, so selling a little extra is a good idea.
      Tool upsells can include the inner tie-rod tool, an outer tie-rod separator and a grease gun if grease fittings are included on any of the front-end components.
      The crowning touch is service information for torque specifications and bleeding procedures. Everyone should have a manual, and you’ve got them on the shelf, right? This is the perfect job to recommend one.
      The post
      link hidden, please login to view appeared first on link hidden, please login to view.
      link hidden, please login to view

×
  • Create New...